it's hard to believe, but when my parents were growing up in prewar seoul, there was no "south of the river" - it was all just cornfields in kangnam. these days, the han river bisects the city, and the cornfields have made way for skyscrapers.
follow the han northeast from seoul and you'll get to this stretch of quiet in cheong-pyong, pierced only by buzz of speedboats hauling wakeboarders and waterskiers.
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