just before juchi & crew had to catch their flight back to paris, julie and john ran off in separate directions for last-minute shopping. seema & i had a leisurely breakfast at pinoxto at la boqueria: an egg bocadillo, a catalan garbanzo and spinach stew and steaming mugs of coffee. of course, i replenished my jamon stockpile.

the very last thing i did in barcelona was to queue up for a meal at Cal Pep on placa de las olles in ribera. it was 2 p.m. midweek but still the tiny front bar was packed with diners sitting elbow to elbow, with a row of salivating would-be diners waiting and watching like hawks behind them (including me) as pep called out his hellos with a voice that sounds like it was squeezed through a food processor. after watching plate after plate come out, i knew what i wanted. here's what i ate, all listed (with spelling errors) in catalan:
- carxofes - artichoke hearts, warm & succulent and lightly fried
- cigrons espinacs - a garbanzo stew with bacon and spinach
- trifasico saltat - medley of lightly fried whitebait, squid and shrimp
- pa amb tomaquet - toasted bread with tomato, oil and salt

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