it's not easy to find real "kalguksu" - hand-cut noodles - houses anymore but there's one in samcheong-dong, near the palace, that we've been going to regularly. in addition to bowls of steaming noodles, the beef and pork dumplings are homemade, usually by two young men standing in the middle of the restaurant covered in flour in a very PR-savvy display of the restaurant's most delicious dish. most days, the line of kalguksu and mandoo aficionados snakes out the restaurant and down the sidewalk.
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